The Flat Head

The Flat Head from Nagano Japan was founded in 1996 and has since established itself as one of the most legendary Japanese denim brands on the market, with denim production taking place in Kojima, Japan. The founder of the brand, Kobayashi, was from an early age inspired by the appeal of ‘’Made in America’’. Early on in life, he made trips to the USA buying denim, but soon realized that there was a great potential in combining the appeal of ‘’Made in USA’’ with the growing technological innovations and refined manufacturing readily available with ‘’Made in Japan’’. Thus, the Flat Head was born, out of an idea to capture the American feeling in denim, without being a replica, but becoming something with its own standing and unique appeal being made in Japan. This becomes apparent in the different denim eras present in each pair of jeans: the unique dying processes are highly influenced by the traditional methods of the 1920’s, the fits and stylings of the 1950’s, and the fades of beloved denim from the 1970’s.

The Flat Head proudly states that each garment is only half complete when it is purchased. Because there are so many natural pieces in these garments, from natural indigo dying, copper and iron rivets, and 100% cotton threads, these pieces will all change and age with grace over time, making them only complete once you have worn them and put your own story into these natural processes. This is perhaps what the brand is most known for these days, is the unique fading of their jeans. Long vertical streaks of textured slubby white threads, appear from underneath the surface-only indigo dyed warp, the appearance of which almost looks like beads of rain running down the jeans, and in Japanese this effect gets the word meaning exactly that.

The Flat Head denim is made from either American or Zimbabwe cotton, and both have unique properties and hand feels. These cottons are then woven on vintage Toyoda G3 shuttle looms, in Japan to produce a unique denim designed to last and to fade with strong whiskering and contrasts.

Production of Flathead jeans is unique in that it takes place overall several factories within and around Kojima for a decentralized approach to making their product. This allows each factory to be extra specialized in their part of production. Each factory has been in operation for several years, employing teams of highly experienced artisans to produce the components that make up and compose a pair of Flat Head jeans. While this makes for an overall slower production time, it does offer superb precision in controlling the utmost quality of each step in the production process. The jeans go through several processes, from pocket construction, pattern development and cutting, to final sewing which takes place on vintage Mitsubishi and Union Special sewing machines.

The Flat Head specializes in denim jeans from Japan, with a true feeling for Americana. The most famous fit from the Flat Head is their 3005 denim jeans. The 3005 fit from Flat Head is a regular straight reminiscent of the 1950’s style jeans worn by style icons like James Dean. The 3005 is a great Levi’s inspired fit, but with a more medium rise, so fits a bit more modern in its top block, a bit more approachable in the seat. With a full thigh and leg, these are a great go to fit for those looking for a regular straight fitting pair of Japanese denim jeans.

In Zimbabwe cotton, Flathead produces the wide fitting jeans, FN-D111. Known for its extra long fibers, Zimbabwe cotton is often referred to as the jewel of cotton because of its luxurious and special feeling. Made on vintage shuttle looms in Japan, these denim fabrics maintain a strong vertical weave, which, pronounced over time, will result in super unique rain drop fades, or Doshaburi as it is known in Japanese.

Flat Head T-Shirts are made from an impressive loop wheeled 20 ounce cotton, which gives them an unbelievable heavy duty feeling. The cotton is spun using vortexed air, which gives it a super strong twist, and needed durability at this heavy weight, but also leaves the core threads super soft and comfortable. Made on loop wheel machines, these tubular designed shirts will drape and fit over the body with ease, giving a pure retro vintage feeling to them. Loop wheel t-shirts are sought after products due to their vintage characteristics and superior fit, the lack of side seams ensures the t-shirt conforms to the wearer's body.